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EDITS Travel
It was in Lome, Togowewitnessed the primal
superstitions that are deeply embedded in
the local culture here. Voodoo dolls abound
in dark small shops where the shopkeepers
talk in whispers. The people still believe that
a photograph taken of them will steal their
souls, so we were under strict instructions
not to use our cameras. Everyone respected
the request except for one American woman.
Such was the depth of feeling that her
actions created, that it required some serious
negotiations to allow the tourist to keep her
camera and avoid arrest.
Our next stop along the way was at Tema
- the port for Accra - in Ghana. This is where
the trip became exciting for David and me.
David was born in Ghana (whilst his father
was Assistant Commissioner in the local
police during colonial times). We had hired
a private guide and toured the area in which
David grew up: Lapadi Beach near the airport
in Accra where he dipped his toes in the sea
after his long unaccompanied flight from
London. Kumasi, some 100 miles inland was
where his family had lived. Even though it was
50 years ago David was able to remember
enough about the area to find the old family
home this turned out to be the residence of
the local chief of police. We took a chance
and knocked on the door, our plan being to
ask if we could have a quick look around
the gardens. Explaining the reason for our
unexpected visit to the security guard we
went to police headquarters in town to meet
the police chief. He was very friendly and
invited us to the house for breakfast the next
day and proceeded to give us a tour of the
entire house. David was able to stand in the
middle of his childhood bedroom, a place he
had last been in 1957.
Our next stop was to Elmina Castle on the
coast, a former slave fort, resonant with the
horrors of the past, where prisoners were
held for a month before being shipped to
the Caribbean. It is now a UNESCO world
heritage site and in need of a lick of paint
and much repair. Returning to Accra our visit
would not be complete until visiting Willie’s
Funeral Parlour – having been a subject of a
TV documentary some years ago. The parlour
is renowned for its unusual approach to
burials. Here you can order a coffin in almost
any shape, size and colour you like: banana
shape, boat shape, car shape or even mobile
phone.
Our stay in Ghana had been an extended
one that we planned for ourselves – we had
arranged to leave the ship and informed the
captain of the cruise ship that we would not
be back on board until Banjul. Our late night
flight, via Freetown in Sierra Leone was quite
eventful – on touching down in Freetown the
aircraft did not seem to be in possession of
the correct papers and we were delayed for
an hour whilst loud negotiations were being
held on the aircraft steps. However, we did
take off and re-joined the ship mid-afternoon.
Next on the itinerary, a day’s sail away,
was Senegal and the city of Dakar. Modern,
clean and with a distinctly French feel to it,
Dakar was welcoming, friendly, rich in good
hotels and restaurants, and yet, surprisingly,
unspoiled by tourism. Too soon for me we
were then heading out into the Atlantic
Ocean and on our way to Cape Verde and
the Canary Islands where we enjoyed quite
possibly the best dish of paella I have ever
tasted (served to us by a waiter striking an
uncanny resemblance to Fawlty Towers’
hapless Manuel). Our taxi driver had
recommended the restaurant, and I would
recommend that you ask local people for their
favourite restaurant – we have eaten some
extraordinary dishes which we would have
missed eating the “tourist” recommended
ones.
From there it was back to the African
continent and Casablanca, vibrant with
colours and scents. We walked the Kasbah
and strolled around the magnificent and new
Hassan II mosque. We were fortunate enough
to visit Ceuta, too, a hidden gem and a little
piece of Spain in Morocco. With its fantastic
shops and cafes, Ceuta had a very European
feel and an unexpected pleasant surprise of
the entire trip. Finally, we waved goodbye
to Africa and headed towards Europe,
calling first at Cadiz, having made a sail past
Gibraltar and then on to Lisbon, the Ocean
Princess furrowing its way under the span of
the harbour bridge. Lisbon was the very first
city that I ever visited abroad in 1967, and,
after such an enthralling voyage, seemed to
mark the perfect start to our homecoming.
Two days more sailing and we were in Dover,
happy and thrilled with our experiences.
Togo
Family Home
Elmina Castle
Dakar